3/8" Phenolic Spacer
Installation Guide (3.0L)

Tool/Parts List:

• New Mounting Bolts (Recommended)
  2-M8x1.25-40mm for the EGR and 4 for the TB (if purchased)
  2-M8x1.25-80mm for the front and rear
  2-M8x1.25-110mm for the passenger side center
  2-M8x1.25-130mm for the driver side center
  
• Or, my personal favorite:  M8x1.25 treaded stock as studs!  Makes reassembly a snap and protects the soft aluminum threads!
  3ft piece of M8x1.25 Threaded Stock (AKA: "All Thread")
  6-M8x1.25 Nuts with integral washers
  1 bottle of 3M® "Loc-Tite" No. 2 (helps stud stay put, but is still removeable)
  
• 2 Upper Intake Manifold Gaskets (Ford, Fel-Pro MS93491, Victor MS15404 or equivalent)
• 3/8" Rachet and a 1/4" Rachet (for '98 )
• 13mm Deep Well Socket (preferred), or a Box End Wrench
  (if you are really hurtin', you can use a 1/2" Deep Well Socket, but only as a last resort!)
• 10mm Socket
• 8mm Socket (1/4" drive) for '98 and newer
• 10mm Combination Wrench
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Rag
• 1 Hour block of time
• Suitable refreshment (Don't Drink and Wrench, a public service message from Rogue Performance)

Related Mods:

• Modified MAF
• Advance Timing ('94 and earlier)
• Hot Water Bypass Mod (98+ only)
  
• K&N FIPK or KKM True Rev Intake
  

  One Step Beyond: 1.72:1 Rockers (They're Here!) Port Match Lower Manifold Getting Started -Let the engine cool, preferably overnight. -Remove the Air Intake Hose at the Throttle Body end using a flat head screwdriver. -Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Harness by gently lifting the tabs and pulling. -Disconnect the Idle Air Control Solenoid (IAC) Harness in the same manner. -Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the tee on rear of Intake. -Use pliers to compress the spring clamp on the power brake booster, and remove hose. -On distributor models ('94 and earlier) remove the #3 or #5 plugwire, which allows clearance to remove the back bolt. -Remove the 3 bolts holding the throttle linkage cover in place using the ratchet, 10mm socket and 10mm open end wrench. -Wedge the screwdriver between linkage and throttle cable to gently pry cable end from ball. -Remove the 2-10mm bolts securing the throttle cable bracket, lower out of the way. -Disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from the bottom of the upper intake. -('98 and later) Remove the 2 heater hoses going to the Upper Manifold. (To get the most out of your spacer, perform the Hot Water Bypass Mod) -('94 and earlier) Remove the 2-13mm nuts holding down the coil, place coil over AC Housing to keep out of the way. -('95 and later) Remove the 2-13mm nuts holding down the coil pack mount, and the lower bracket (at exhaust maniold), place coil pack over AC Housing to keep out of the way. -Using the 13mm Deep Well Socket and rachet, remove the 6 bolts securing the Upper Intake Manifold. Place a rag over the lower intake (to avoid "Accidental Ingestion"), move manifold out of the way to a safe location. -While the upper intake is off, it's a good time to see the DIY Guide at Standard Abrasives Web Site, to portmatch the upper intake. You can't do the lower intake unless it is removed from the engine. Reassembly: -Place one gasket, the spacer and the other gasket on lower manifold. -Cafefully palce the upper intake on top of stack.  Real easy with studs! -Align bolt holes and install bolts. -Tighten bolts to 132 in-lbs (11 ft/lbs) from center out. -Tighten bolts (2nd step) to 19 to 24 ft/lbs from center out. -Continue assembly in reverse order. **On '98+ Models, remember to top off your Radiator after the test run!** Back to Rogue Performance Menu