Block and Head Mods...

...from Rogue Performance!

Heads:
The factory heads are pretty thin, and tend to crack between the valves.  These cracks are so small, they can be easily missed during a magnaflux check.  Machinists familiar with the 3.0L dilema however, spot them right away.  If you are doing any hard driving, towing or racing with your 3.0L, contact Alabama Cylinder Head for their thicker castings (P/N FOR605NB for bare or FOR605N for a complete head).  These are for '86 to '95 engines, but I am sure the later models engines should be fine with these.

Mods:
-Avoid milling the heads to raise compression, a mild surface truing is fine, but change the pistons or offset the stroke for a compression boost.
-Replace the factory freeze plugs with threaded pipe plugs.  The freeze plugs can not be easily serviced in the vehicle due to clearance and accessories placement, so remove them from the equaltion!  If not, use quality brass replacements (AE Clevite P/N: 2199627).
-The heads are universal, there is no "Left" or "Right" head, so don't worry.
-Avoid any opening of the intake ports, they are already huge.
-Concentrate your efforts on the chamber, exhaust ports and valve bowls.
-Do not "port match" the exhaust ports on a Normally Aspirated engine.  You will have exhaust reversion, contaminate the incoming fuel and loss performance.
-Deburr the interior, exterior and Blueprint all passages/openings.
-Contact BHJ for Torque paltes to make the valve seats truely round.  The application chart actually lists the 3.0L Ford V-6!

Parts:
(Single springs, drop-in)
Crane springs (Summit/Jeg's/anywhere!) 99833-12 (part number in catalog is xxxxx-16, use -12 to get them for a 6cyl and save!)
Crane steel retainers (Same) 99944-12
(Double springs, machine-in)
Crane outer springs (Same) 99858-12
Crane inner springs (Same) 99834-12
Crane steel retainers (Same) 99947-12
Pioneer 5/16" valve keepers - your machinist
McCord Viton valve stem seals (or EOK) 5/16" valves - your machinist or packaged with your gasket set.
SI Valves "Port Flow" Exhaust valves - Stainless, swirl polished, one piece, STD size, P/N SEV-3484
SI Valves "Port Flow" Intake valves - Stainless, swirl polished, one piece, STD size, P/N SEV-3485
Standard Abrasives porting and polishing kit - Summit
FlatOut Rubber Coated Copper Head Gaskets - Me!
ARP Head Studs - Me!
Valve lapping paste - Local auto parts store
Valve lapping stick - Local auto parts store

Note: These P/N's are for early (Pre-7/27/99) Vulcans only, the later heads have 7mm valve stems and "Bee Hive" springs. SI is going to produce a line of replacement and performance valves for you folks, just have to be patient... (Don't call!)
I will list part numbers when available.

Plan:
Intake - port match to .500" in, smooth short radius, clean up bowl and open throat (just to 1/2" below seat) to .9% of the intake seat width or 1.4".  New SI Intake Valves trued, lapped and installed at proper height with at least 1 spring shim.
Exhaust - port (leaving a substantial port mismatch to the headers on Normally Aspirated Engines!) and polish exhaust, smooth short radius, major rework on bowl (leaving valve guide untouched), open throat to 1.1".  New SI Exhaust Valves trued, lapped and installed at proper height with at least 1 spring shim.

-Head changes: '86-'95 are interchangeable with all vehicles.  '96-'7/26/99 valve stems changed to 7mm (vs 8mm/5/16") and springs changed to a "Bee Hive" style.


Block:
The blocks are pretty good.  There are no aftermarket replacements, so they seem to hold up well.  I have yet to see a Vulcan engine with a bottom end problem, but, since it's out, why not make it better?

Mods:
-Avoid milling the deck to raise compression, a mild surface truing is fine, but change the pistons or offset the stroke for a compression boost.
-Remove the factory freeze plugs before sending the block to the "tank".  The freeze plugs can not be easily serviced in the vehicle due to clearance, location and accessories placement, so remove them from the equaltion!  There are 5- 1.5" plugs in the block.  If you intend to run this engine hard, thread them for pipe plugs!  Otherwise, use quality brass replacements (AE Clevite P/N: 2199627).
-Replace ALL of the 6-1/2" galley plugs with hardened units as the factory ones easily strip and may be prone to leaking after a trip to the hot tank.
-Remove the 5/8" freeze plug (driver side front) and install a 1/2"-18 galley plug (same ones as above) to prevent leaks in to or out of the crank case.  This would be a great place to install an oil return line for a turbo/supercharger, but Ford hid it behind the engine mounts!
-Bore to .040" with no trouble, or use 4.6L V-8 dimensions (.3552") for more choices.
-Contact BHJ for Torque paltes to make the cylinders truely smooth.  The application chart actually lists the 3.0L Ford V-6!
-Deburr the interior, exterior and Blueprint all passages/openings.
-Block changes: '86 was a hydraulic block, 31MAY91 was the Roller Block and 7/98 is the long head bolt block.

Go to Rogue Performance!


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